When
creating your pet portrait I work from either the photographs
you have sent to me, or photos I have taken myself. The more photos
you give me, the better. The better the photos, the better the
final portrait is likely to be. I almost never work directly from
only one photo. I may work from several photos, taking something
from each one, in order to achieve the final result. They can
be sent by mail as prints or on a cd disk, or you can email them
to me at a high resolution. All photos are treated with great
care while they are with me and returned to you unharmed when
the portrait is complete. You may like to have copies made of
any particularly precious pictures before you mail me the originals
just in case they should somehow get lost in the mail. This has
never happened to me, but better safe than sorry.
Selecting Your Photos
When selecting the photos of your
pet, it is always helpful if you can point out your favorite pose
and the picture that gives the best color representation. Having
an actual paper print photo is especially helpful for this. A
clear close up of your pet's head is especially important, showing
the eyes in natural light with another showing the full body if
you are having a full body portrait. If you are unsure which photos
would work best, just send them all and I will help you choose.
Taking Photos Of Your Pet
The photos don't have to be perfect
and there is no need to worry about what is happening in the
background as I will simply ignore anything not wanted in your final portrait.
If you have to hold your pet for example, don’t worry about
your hand showing in the photo. If you are having more than one
pet in the portrait it is very helpful to see at least one photo with them together
so I can get their relative sizes accurate.
At
least one of your pictures need to be very clear, showing detail
in the fur etc, and representing the color well. Avoid strong
sunlight or heavy shadows. Whenever possible, take your photos
outside, preferably in the shade. A gloomy overcast day is
perfect! If you are using a digital camera, remember that I
can always do editing in my computer to the photos to help
me, so don’t
worry if they look too dark for example. If you are restricted
to taking your photos inside, avoid using your flash if possible.
— One photo will be chosen as the POSE photo. This
is the one that you have decided represents the desired pose
for your final portrait.
— Another photo may be the COLOR photo. This
will be the photo that best shows the true colors of your
pet.
— Another photo or several other photos will be the DETAIL
photos. These are the sharp close-up photos that I wish
to have so that I can really see the clear texture of fur for example,
or the eyes or nose. The more photos I have, the better!
It
is usually very helpful to have another person around to assist
you, someone behind you with a toy or treat often works well for
a dog for example. Take your pictures at eye level...this is very
important. This can mean lying on the ground if you have to. With
dogs especially, pay attention to the position of the ears. If
your dog is alerting to a treat or a sound etc., he will perk
his ears up and this always makes for a much better pose than
if the ears were in a relaxed position. Also, decide if you would
like the tongue to show or not. On an animal that is mostly one
color, an all white or all black dog for example, it looks best
if some of the tongue is showing, as this adds another color to
your portrait, as well as a more happy looking expression. A mouth
that is too much open however can look wrong also. (See my examples
of good and bad pictures).
Many
people tend to look down on their pet when they are taking
photos - this is natural as humans are taller than most pets
and we look down on them and they look up at us, so the obvious
angle to take a photo is to look down on the animal. However,
this not only distorts the animal’s head but also give a wrong impression as
to what the animal "really" looks like. The best way
is to get down on the animals level so that you can take photos
of the dog from its eye level.
Red
eye, or glare can be a problem when taking photos of your pets.
Many digital cameras come with a built-in red eye flash feature.
It works by making several quick flashes, getting your subject
used to the light so their pupils don't dilate, which is the
cause of the red eye effect. If you don’t have a build
in red-eye flash in your camera try to take photos in natural
light outside or by a window so that the use of flash is not
needed.
Working From Older Photos
It may be that your pet is no longer with you, in which case I
will do my best to create a lasting tribute from whatever photos
you have. If the photos are not very sharp, they may be best used
for a watercolor instead of a more detailed, hair-by-hair portrait,
and again you must remember that the final portrait can never
be clearer than the original photo.
So remember.....the most important things to remember when taking
your photographs are:
Go Outside...Eye Level...Alert
Pose... and above all ... THE MORE THE BETTER!
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